Author: Sally Knight

Waverly Station in Edinburgh is an underground maze of shops, cafes, tourist lounges and eventually departure platforms. We arrived early with reserved seats on Coach H to London. We felt smug and self satisfied that this journey was going to be a breeze. However there was a glitch in the software and suddenly all of the coach numbers were skewed and the seat reservation numbers were cancelled. It was every man, woman and child and suitcase for himself. We did manage to find out that coach D was now coach H and we lowered our shoulders and got on it. Thankfully it was open seating and we grabbed two that gave us a great view of the country side. Our original seats were at the back of the coach with no window. That would be no fun. Ladies next to us were prepared for this nearly six hour journey. They had ham, milk, tomatoes, grapes, candy, oranges, a box of pastries and strange other food products that they obviously enjoyed and generously offered to share. Alas we had our own. A much simpler menu to choose from but we nibbled, read and watched the scenery change. Until Newcastle the scenery was primarily agricultural. Sheep, cattle, horses warmly wrapped in blankets, old farm houses with the barns attached to the house. Farmer Fergus did not have to get cold to tend to his animals. Always stone fences that had established boundaries for generations, An occasional sheep or cow was able to slip pass the boundary, but everybody watched for them and eventually they were returned to safety. Ponds, rippling streams and rolling rivers filled with ducks geese and other water birds added to the scenery. Small golf courses were busy, smoke drifted from chimneys and a general sense of serenity lay over the villages and towns we passed through. There is a better balance of life than what we know in America. Any slipup is followed by the saying “no worries.” The landscape became flatter and after leaving York everything became much more industrial. The approach to King’s Cross kept us in a darkened tunnel until a platform became available and we stepped out into the hustle and bustle of London. But even in a busy city we did not feel rushed or pressured. A coffee and a beer was meant to be sipped and enjoyed no need to hurry the taxi que will still be there. WE bit the bullet and hired a cab to drive us to a hotel near Heathrow. Neither of us could face the underground with luggage at five in the afternoon. The driver left the freeway and dodged around residential areas which was fun. Expensive Westminster, Hounslow, Hammersmith, old ,old communities in the city with names that can be found in MY FAIR LADY. We finally arrived at the WalMart of Hotels. It offers everything. Parking, shuttles, restaurants, bars, cafes, meal plans, luggage check, vending machines and a bed for overnight. All of this for only 69lbs. We are happy. Our journey is almost over and Kelly gave us the best advice as she drove us to the airport. Be patient with each other she said and we followed her advice. One of us knew where we were most of the time and understood where we were going. The other played devil’s advocate, but we refrained from grabbing and snatching the map. That is a family phrase we use when traveling to express frustration. I am so happy to have my wonderful husband, sweetheart, and friend to share this and many other journeys with. We have been blessed to have seen and shared the world with each other. Troy Knight you have my heart.

This was a lovely casual day with lots of sun and only a spit or two of rain. No special plans except to visit some of the museums, enjoy a nice lunch and get ready to head to London. We ended up spending a wonderful evening with the Chapmans a couple from South Carolina. WE had a number of shared interested and spent three or four hours visiting and trading travel stories. The beauty of travel is that you get to meet so many wonderful people. This trip is one of my favorite. Exploring three different countries, learning about different cultures and appreciated our world in so many way. I will continue the journal until we return home.

Another beautiful day in Edinburgh. We have been so lucky to have experienced so much sunshine and we made the most of it. We bought tickets on the hop on hop off bus which meant exactly that Hop on find a place we want to visit, hop of and then climb to the top for the best sight seeing. Most the day was spent at the bottom of the Royal Mile visiting Holyrood Palace. Being old has its perks. A kind guide put us on the lift to avoid on long flight of stairs and we visited the more modern staterooms and saw miles and miles of portraits of royals from Scotland. This is where Queen Elizabeth lay in state before her body was flown back to England and where Mary Queen of Scots spent part of her life. Mary’s chambers were small and dark. I can’t imagine living in such a tiny space with the number of people crowded in with her. Here her husband killed her Secretary in her presence, her baby was born and taken from her and from here she fled to England hoping her cousin Queen Elizabeth would protect her. She lived a prisoner for 19 years before she was finally beheaded. Eventually her son King James ruled Scotland and England. Buildings full of character, beautiful flowers, a monument on every corner and warm gracious people. King Charles will be visiting the Scottish Parliament tomorrow. The Parliament building sits across from the Palace. Wildly modern in its architecture it is a sharp contrast to the Palace. It will be interesting to see how he is received. Well I hope. He is after all the Second King Charles of Scotland.

What is a day in Scotland without rain? We have been so lucky to have good weather on this trip and yesterday was not one of them. The morning was cold, wet and windy. The afternoon was just cold and windy. We figured out the local bus system which has a no contact pay system which makes is easier than most cities. No need to worry about correct change and a tourist card. Hopped on #s 27 and went into the old city. Tickets for Edinburgh Castle are very limited and we were able to get our on line and get to the Castle in time for the One O’Clock Gun. A tradition that takes place every day except Christmas and New Years. With military precision she is fired over the city and creates quite a roar. In contrast Margaret’s chapel is a tiny place of worship near the top and my favorite of the visit. Nearby there is a dog cemetery to honor military dogs killed in service. Queen Victoria an animal lover started the tradition. Lunch was at the French embassy. A proper Bistrot with wonderful food and service. Coq Au Vin for me and Boeuf Ragot for Troy. Delicious. It was like stepping into a different world. The menu was in French, French waitress and beautiful French sayings painted tastefully on the walls. One diner kept falling asleep and woke up only when they placed another course in front of her. Young lovers kept switching plates and two old men made a demitasse last for over an hour. We loved it. Cold Wandered down the Royal Mile peeking into closes and churches and finally into a bar. Weather and a martini kept us from completing the Royal Mile. We will save the Palace for another day. Back to the hotel for a hot shower and an early night. As Scarlet would say. Tomorrow is another day.

Yesterday was a day of travel. Some bits of shopping for a Scottish Shawl, sThe Highlands are beautiful, but this time in the city will be fun too. The ghost of Mary, Queen of Scots, Baby King James and those dour Presbyterians will be scattered about as well as Grey Friars Bobby and all sorts of history. We will tackle the bus system and try to keep our heads about us as we deal with new experiences. I feel sad today as I learned my dear friend Myrtle Lou Wilson died. She and I were such good friends in high school and I loved her and her family very much. I valued her friendship.

Outside our window the ancient Castel of Inverness stands over the Ness River. It is not surrounded with soldiers and horses but with scaffolding to support its restoration. It is still a romantic reminder of the old days when the castle was a sort of bomb shelter for the people when invaders from wheresoever suddenly appeared to disrupt their lives. Our lives were disrupted today by a cold Scottish rain. Luckily we had planned to activities and found ways to entertain ourselves despite the weather. A visit to the Victorian Market proved a disappointment. Cheap merchandise and not so appetizing food had no appeal so we left quickly. Along the streets we did explore beautiful shops with woolen goods and Harris Tweed that made us wish we lived in a climate that would justify a purchase of such apparel. But good sense ruled and we were satisfied with feeling the materials as my Aunt LaNell and my mother would say when they shopped for fabrics. A visit to the Inverness Museum was interesting. In two floors they had crowded in the geological history of the Highlands, they Jacobite Rebellion, and the social history of Northern Scotland. A Tartan wedding gown worn by Scottish brides since the late 1600’s is on display waiting for another Campbell bride to claim it and walk down the aisle. I love seeing the personal artifacts of life of ordinary people. Old curling irons, cookware, clothing and such. All so much the same but still so very different. A visit to the oldest pub in Inverness produced a conversation with a young man who wants to see Trump elected, but a change in American gun laws. A young woman who comes in and promptly sits her dog on the bar and all of the bar employees gather round to give the little thing hugs and kisses. No one is bothered by a dog on the bar and in fact brought smiles to a dour face or two. A visit to a huge second hand book store and a lunch of steak and kidney pie finished up the day. There are few foods I have promised myself I will never taste again and smashed peas is one of them. I have learned to love this place where Macbeth and his famous Lady resided, where tartans rule the shops and sea birds fly in to sleep of the roof top but strangely do no leave a mess behind. Tomorrow another city in Scotland.

Another long day on a bus, but without an auto like Blanche we must depend of the kindness of strangers. In every shop window in Inverness there is at least one kilt, one lovely shawl and the heartbreaker, a stuffed or carved red Hairy Coo or cow as we say in Texas. Today was our day. Yesterday we squandered some pounds on refrigerated magnets. Today the real thing. We stopped at a display of three wonderful, well fed and totally movie star red Scottish cattle. They never glanced our way. Just kept their heads down and continued eating. Everyone was star struck as we got up close and personal with a cow for Heaven’s sake. The original breed was black and one was gifted to Queen Victoria who announced she hated it and nothing should be in all black except her. They knew enough about selective breeding to create the red ones that are so popular now. We saw many more coos in pasture today, but these were my favorite. The next stop was Eilean Donan Castle which is straight out of the Middle Ages. Like so many structures it was destroyed by the British Navy during the Jacobite uprising. Many years later the members of the McCrae Clan restored the Castle and still hold the title to it, but technically it is part of the National Trust. You have all seen her many times as she pays her way by being used in Hollywood films and television shows. They are fussy about photos being taken by tourist. Only want to the big bucks from Hollywood. Who can blame them. For a lot of money you can get married in the gardens for another special room. We saw some photos and they were gorgeous. Doubt the average Scottish bride would walk down the castle aisle. More winding roads, more sheep more hay fields and we are still loving it. A special people live in this wild and lonely place. From many of the villages school children must take a ferry and then a bus and reverse their travel in the afternoon. A long day for them. Tourism brings in a tidy sum during the warmer months then the islanders have them home back. Quaint B and Bs Old but beautiful hotels, you can even rent a tiny aluminum dome beside the road that sleeps two. We spotted deer as we drove back and a weird little cafe called the Midges Bite. Fun day with more to come.

Just before the pandemic Troy and I had planned a trip with the Gunn Clan to explore his Scottish heritage. Many of the activities were in Inverness and John O’ Groats. As fate would have it that trip did not materialize, but this trip to Scotland has given us a small chance to see some of that iteniary. So today we took of a tour that took us through many delightful villages. Alness, Tain, Golspie, Brora, and Wick. Each village had a lovely church, a green, a public house and its on special charm. Most of the villages had a small golf course a reminder that this is where the game began. Golfers often share the course with of course sheep. None of the showy Catholic churches in this bastion of Presbyterians, but nice study houses of worship with a graveyard waiting for its declining worshippers. We learned all about the Lord Sutherlands who held sway over the area for years and apparently still do. We had the privilege of visiting Dunrobbin Castle the home of the Sutherland family for many years. Beautifully appointed with paintings, fine china, majestic stag heads and tiger skin rugs, the house was still very much a home. The nursery was a beautiful place for children to spend their time. The library and music room were places to entertain and be entertained. Every room looked out to the sea and gardens full of trees and flowers. I loved seeing how the young duchess had joined the navy and was an ambulance driver during WWI and how other family members had served their country during war and peace. We continued northward and the soft light gave a painterly feeling to the landscape again full of sheep, fat cows and horses and acres and acres of hay. John O’Groats offered lunch, a peek at the Orkney Islands and more breath taking views. Just before arriving we went through a village where the name Gunn was prominent. Troy could get a sense of where his early early ancestors lived. We returned home on nearly the same route detouring through villages that we missed, stopped for lobster rolls and returned home ready for another Scottish adventure.

Rose early to say goodbye to Glasscow and to get the train to Inverness. The train was crowded with day trippers, cyclists and babies. We were lucky to get a seat together and watched the countryside slip by. As we go northward the land becomes hilly and agricultural. Sheep and horses and hayfields with small farm houses dot the landscape and small cities with interesting names are stops along the way. We go through Birnam Wood and I look for Macbeth and Macduff to lead their troops through the forest ready for battle. Our biggest battle was when we arrived in Inverness. We did not have correct change for the pay toilets and ducked under the barrier to get in. They should warn you before hand that you need money to tinkle. The town is much cooler than Glasscow and a bit gray. Many mediaeval buildings and narrow winding streets. Lots of kilt shops, tweed shops and shops featuring red cattle with bangs. Some way some how I will return to Texas with one of those cows in some form. Down Bridge street we went with locals helping us find our fancy digs. Lovely apartment with a balcony overlooking the river, fancy robes and two bathrooms, milk for our tea in the fridge and a washing machine. Went to a trendy restaurant for drinks and appetizers. Got the drinks; never got the food. Troy said grab you coat. We skipped out. Can never go back to the White House again. Free Negronis are wonderful. Can’t wait for tomorrow when we go further North to visit John O Groats and the northern most part of Scotland. So lucky to be sharing this adventure with the love of my life.

This was the first typical Irish day filled with drizzle and clouds; all of the others were filled with bright sunshine. After a breakfast of an Irish BAP, fried egg and cheese on a soft bun and lots of bacon and breakfast tea, we went to the General Post Office to learn more about the Irish Rebellion. It began on Monday morning when the wealthy were dying Easter eggs with their children and the poor were trying to earn a penny for food and ended a week later with the execution of the rebels. British troops hurried in and subdued the rebels destroyed much of the city with heavy artillery, killing 65. The oldest a 65 years old man and the youngest a two years old boy. Lives were lost and changed. Rebel leaders surrendered and were summarily executed. Some were so weak from hunger they had to be carried to their execution. Finally Ireland won their independence and rid themselves of the hateful landlord system. The exhibition is masterfully laid out. Photos, posters, clothing capture the times beautifully. A long drive to the airport took us through poverty and wealth pointing out that times haven’t changed completely. Our flight to Glasscow was on a tiny prop plane and there was no team to off load the luggage. Waiting for our bags took nearly as much time as the flight. Our hotel is near city hall which is across from a touching WWI memorial. Equesterian statues of Queen Victoria and Prince Albert wearing traffic cones are just opposite the memorial. Obviously someone had too much ale and decorated the formal Queen and her Prince. WE are now on a train headed to Inverness watching the land become agricultural again. This area is also full of sites where the Scots tried to rid themselves of English Rule. The fight goes on. Two cyclists are trying to put their bikes in place on the train. Young women planning to ride from Inverness back to Glasscow an ambitious pedal to say the least.