TRAVELING TO EXPLORE AND PHOTOGRAPH NEW SITES AND CULTURES
Today we picked our grandson Thomas Knight up from the airport. He is going to visit us until we all return to the US. He is pretty exhausted from not sleeping since yesterday so we made a short loop around the main plaza, had lunch and visited the market. He had his first experience at haggling. He did ok on the fruit and really good with the hog head. He got it for $5.
Guayaquil was a nice change. Luxurious sheets, well appointed room, Sangria brought from the bar and something besides Animal Planet on TV. We met a nice couple bicycling around the world who were staying in the hotel while she recovered from an accident and another couple at breakfast who were astounded that we had traveled on a bus. So the level of adventure does vary from traveler to traveler. We hired a driver to bring us back to Cuenca and I am not so sure we were any better off than on the bus, but the ride was beautiful if a bit scary. Leaving Guayaquil we were struck by the stark poverty that we saw in contrast to the natural beauty of the landscape. Dirty little towns and shacks sat along the road with open air restaurants were full of local resi ents eating lunch and drinking coffee. Their houses are little shacks on stilts each with one opening for a door and no windows. Some have new tin on the roof, but most the them have a rusty roof that would do little to protect the homeowner. A few scrawny chickens peck in the muddy dirt hunting for insects or worms. The people have no garden space to supplement their obviously poor diet. However, their native artistic sense is evident in their fruit stands. Mangoes, bananas, papaya, and watermelon are beautifully arranged on carts in a manner that best shows off the color and shape of the fruit. They are selling cut melons that were artful. We are always impressed by their merchandizing ability. They do not seem unhappy with their lives. They swim in the river have picnics by the water and play like children. Maybe the simple life suits them or they simply do not know any other way to live. The huge agribusiness fields are well tended and stretch as far as the eye can see while the smaller plots are worked by hand. I am sure many of the folks work for the agribusinesses when it is time to pick the crops. Small trucks loaded with bananas head west to Guayaquil to be sold to markets. We leave the flat lands and head up the mountain.
This is where the trip gets scary. The road is slick and curvy and we are soon in the clouds. The driver does not slow down. Troy tries to sleep so he can ignore this Mr. Toad’s Wild Ride. He does not sleep and I do not try. I think Manuelo believes that PILEGRO ZONA DERRUMBLES means drive like hell and no passing really meant TAKE OFF WHAT DO YOU HAVE TO LOSE. Honk the horn and everybody must get out of the way. WE stop for lunch which was chicken soup with a wing and a boiled egg in it which we bolt down and hit the road again. The scenery is gorgeous. Huge philodendron, ferns, lichen grow out of the mountain which constantly nourishes them with water and minerals. Lack of sun light means there are no flowers except for an occasional lupine. There is no sign of human activity until many miles later and then we sight small hotels, fishing camps and some ranching activity. This area is much more prosperous. There are garden plots, roses and Shasta daisies growing in the yard, children wear school uniforms and play alongside the road. Much of this area is CAJA NATIONAL PARK and the residents benefit from the park visitors. Soon Cuenca appears. This beautiful little jewel of a city nestles in the valley of four rivers. The Old Cathedral and the New Cathedral wait patiently for us. The maid did not come to the apartment as we wished but it doesn’t really matter.
Adios,
Sally
This is a follow-up to the Zoologico Amaru post Sally did earlier. It contains a series of photographs I did for the Director of Economics at the Zoo for the zoo to use for publicity and fundraising. This is not your typical zoo. The Zoologico Amaru is one of the most interesting zoos we have ever visited. About 15 minutes out of town the zoo is literally carved from the side of a mountain consequently there is a lot of climbing, breaks for spectacular vistas, and surprises around every bend of the path. The animals are housed in natural habitats and can be observed in an environment that is most comfortable for them. The sign clearly states that the primary purpose of the zoo is to provide sanctuary and peace for the animals. To get a good photograph of some of the animals is extremely difficult. The photographs attached are for you to enjoy. Feel free to copy if you would like.
Troy Knight
Dummies or Majotes decorate shop fronts, taxis, and private cars all over Cuenca. Most of them represent political figures and you can add your thoughts to their message board, some are cartoon characters, and some are more sophisticated displays created by an entire neighborhood. In the end they will be kicked to the curb and set on fire, symbolizing the end of the old year and what ever grief or despair that was there is now burned and a fresh slate awaits the New Year.
Yellow underwear for all genders and ages is worn for good luck, twelve grapes are consumed at midnight, young men dressed like Viajes or widows roam the neighborhood begging candy and pennies, and free beer stands are set up in the neighborhood. Who could ask for more.
http://www.life-in-ecuador.com/ecuador-new-years.html
Feliz Ano Nuevo as they say in Cuenca.
Sally
The Zoologico Amaru is one of the most interesting zoos we have ever visited. About 15 minutes out of town the zoo is literally carved from the side of a mountain consequently there is a lot of climbing, breaks for spectacular vistas, and surprises around every bend of the path. The animals are housed in natural habitats and can be observed in an environment that is most comfortable for them. The sign clearly states that the primary purpose of the zoo is to provide sanctuary and peace for the animals. Lewis and Clark University and the University of Philadelphia are active partners with the sanctuary and we met two young men who were employed by AMARU and who had visited the Houston Zoo and Moody Gardens. The very secretive Andean bear was one of the first animals we visited. The habitat was huge and included ponds, feeding stations and a bear cave. Though we were able to see the bears Troy could not get a good photo. The bears and all the other animals in the zoo are rescue animals and could not be returned to the wild.
What is a zoo without monkeys? These little fellows seem to have the run of the entire space. Tunnels made of chicken wire are all around the park at the top of the trees and at first glance they seem to be moving about without being hindered. They drop onto islands scattered about the area, disappear into underground tunnels, pop back up and continue the monkey life. They are not bored because they are stimulated constantly as they would be in the wild.
The birds were very representative of Ecuador. Beautiful macaws, green parrots, and the big beaked tucan are free to fly about the large aviary. There was also an area for owls, several condors, eagles of different kinds and ducks, geese and the Pavo Reales or as we know it a peacock. We even saw the blue footed boobie.
These beautiful tigres knew it was time to be fed and they set up a growl as two young men approached their habitat with food. There were some African animals. A nice pride of lions dominated another area of the zoo. The path we followed was over 5 kilometers. There was no attempt to make the walk easy, however for safety there was a hand rail. We moved up and down and in and out of areas and it was not an easy walk. We were among the last of the guests to leave and the young man checking our tickets said his boss called and asked if Troy would send him the pictures he took. We feel honored he asked. Not a traditional zoo, but better and no better place to spend my birthday.
Almost as soon as Christmas is over Cuenca begins to prepare for the New Year. Vendors take down Christmas cards and lights. Inventory unsold Santa hats and Nativity sets and bring out the New Years items. Here it is not so much about greeting the New Year as it is saying good-bye to the old. Masks of political figures, the famous and infamous are sold for two dollars and everyone buys them. Dummies stuffed with newspapers, fireworks, vegetable and animal matter are built and erected around neighborhoods. These will be set on fire to get rid of the bad and make room for the good to come. Taxis and family cars are decorated with them. Young men in drag call themselves the widows and go about demanding candy, money and beer. Fireworks are set off all over the city. This along with the bonfires makes quite a spectacle. Some of the gringos living here tried to put a stop to the random fireworks and Cuencans said no dice. Love it or leave it. We got into the spirit early today and bought our masks. Note the two characters below. Apparently around 4 to 6 AM it comes to a halt and the city sleeps all day. No shops or restaurants open so we will need to be supplied for the day.
Prospero Ano
Sally
Today Troy and I took a bus trip to two small towns outside of Cuenca. The bus station was relatively easy to manipulate. Put in a dime enter the turnstile and find a bus that has the name of the town on your agenda. The bus was clean and comfortable and no animals were permitted so the stereotype of traveling with chickens did not exist. However, while sitting on the bus waiting to leave a young woman gets on delivers a sales pitch about who knows what passes out lovely pieces of candy and then proceeds to continue her pitch. She then moves up the aisle collecting money. If you did not pay, she takes the candy back. There were a few crying children. She exits and another gentleman proceeds to give out Milagros, then he gives a chain to put the milagro on, same routine he tries to collect money if you don’t donate away goes the milagro. No babies cried. Next the Herbal Life man makes a pitch. He hands out a pack of vitamins. No dinero; no vitamins. By this time we arrive in Gualaceo.
The little church was beautiful inside and the town obviously does not have many visitors because the tourist office only had one map.
Lunch was in a family restaurant. This young man is thirteen and anxious to help his family be successful. Lunch was fried fish and the beer was cold. Hernan directed us to the bus station and we headed for Chordeleg.
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The little town of Banos which is about 10 miles South of Cuenca is known for its thermal waters and spas. Piedras de Aguas is one of the better ones and if you make inquiries you can do a spa circuit for $35 for two. The spa is a series of caves cut into the mountain and three beautiful pools and several restaurants. The first step in a shower and 15 minutes in a steam room followed by the mud baths.Next we entered the red mud bath which is full of iron and works as an exfolient. Covering as much of the body as possible, the red mud dyes the nails, hair and Troy left with a red beard. Sit in the sun until it dries and wash it off and shower and go for the green mud .
The green mud supposedly contains gold, silver and quartz. Another shower and it is time for the thermal baths. The thermal baths consist of a warm pool for 10 minutes and a freezing pool for a minute. No one ever lasts a full minute in the cold pool. This is followed by an 
old fashioned steam bath.
We treated ourselves to a chocolate massage and lunch in the restaurant. Look for bargains and these experiences need not be expensive.
December 24 marks the final Pase del Nino. This extremely long parade is exactly like the prior smaller ones that we had the opportunity to see, but it lasted for six and a half hours. We took an ice cream break, a lunch break and did some window shopping each time to return to Simon Bolivar to see more of the parade. Beautiful costumes, off key bands, exuberant dancers and smiling faces lasted for the entire parade. A good laugh breaks all language barriers. Toward the end of the parade there were about 6 floats with roasted pigs on them. My favorite was this whole hog with a tiny umbrella over his head. The lady standing beside me and I both had a good laugh over that one. The final figure in this parade was not Santa but a smiling archbishop waving to the Church community. I suspect that he waited out his time to appear in the comfort of his office not in the Plaza de San Francisco as the other participants did.
Feliz Navidad
Sally
Friday, December 23, Troy and I had the privilege of witnessing an unusual and typically Ecuadorian celebration called the Pase del Nino Viajero. The celebration began 60 years ago when a wealthy family commissioned an Italian artist to carve a statue of the Infant Jesus. The Priest who collected the Image traveled extensively with it before returning to Cuenca. The Statue was welcomed home and referred to as the Traveling Child. Every year the Sagrada Imagen is brought from the Saturio Mariano where it has spent most of the year and makes another ceremonial journey. This journey is a highly military one. The Image is dressed in a military uniform, guarded by lancers and the horsemen, personally carried by a three star general. Over a period of about three hours, the image leaves the Saturio Mariano, visits a monastery, is the center piece of a vesper service at the New Cathedral, is carried across the park and finally comes to rest at the Old Cathedral. The whole concept was strangely wonderful to Troy and me. There was no political correctness. Close ties to the Church and Military. Black face clowns dancing down the aisle of the church with their arms full of flowers. Cowboys with whips. Men and women joyously singing and dancing as they brought traditional gifts to the altar. There would be protests aplenty in the USA. We can hardly wait to see what Christmas Eve brings. We will be attending a Rooster Mass.
Feliz Navidad,
Sally
